East Bali: An Underrated Gem Worth Exploring

Home to gorgeous beaches, lush rice fields, historic temples, and breathtaking views of the mighty Mount Agung, East Bali is a paradise located far away from the hustle and bustle of the more touristy areas of Bali. Like most travelers who come to Bali, I only knew of the popular hotspots like Ubud, Kuta, Canggu, and Uluwatu. But when I came across a volunteering opportunity in Karangasem, East Bali, I decided to apply immediately, so I could explore the less-touristy side of Bali. 

Karangasem, a province located in the East of Bali, is known for its temples, historic sites, and beaches. I volunteered at a school in Padang Kerta, a neighbourhood in Karangasem. Padang Kerta is located about 30 minutes from Candidasa, which is the more popular and touristy part of Karangasem. During my time there as a volunteer, I stayed with a local family, which gave me the opportunity to experience the local culture and cuisine. Each time I walked past the street, I would get curious stares from the locals, indicating that the area rarely sees any tourists. As a traveler, this was a sign that I was in the most authentic part of Bali!

Getting to East Bali

East Bali is roughly 2.5 hours from Ngurah Rai International Airport in Denpasar, depending on traffic. Here are your main options:

• Grab or Gojek: I took a Grab from the airport directly to Karangasem, which cost around IDR 1,090,000. The journey took about 2.5 hours. Worth it for the ease, but factor this into your budget as it's one of the pricier Grab rides you'll take in Indonesia.

• Private driver: arranging a private driver through your accommodation in advance can sometimes work out cheaper than Grab for long-distance transfers. Ask your host to recommend someone they trust.

• Shuttle bus: services like Perama and Kura-Kura run shared shuttles between popular Bali destinations, including some that pass through or near East Bali. More affordable but less flexible and slower due to multiple stops.

Getting Around East Bali

East Bali is spread out, so you'll need transport to get between attractions. The options are:

• Gojek: Indonesia's equivalent of Uber, and an absolute lifesaver in East Bali. I used it throughout my stay for getting to the beach and nearby attractions. Make sure you have the app downloaded before you arrive.

• Scooter rental: available locally in Candidasa and Karangasem town for around IDR 60,000–80,000 per day. Gives you total freedom to explore at your own pace.

• Local taxis: available but always negotiate the price upfront.

A note on Gojek: in very rural areas the app can sometimes struggle to find drivers, as I found out the hard way at Bukit Cinta. Always have a backup plan, or be prepared to accept a lift from a kind local — which, in my experience, is something East Balinese people offer with genuine warmth.

Best Time to Visit

Bali's dry season runs from April to October, which is the best time to visit East Bali. The skies are clearer, the roads are drier, and you're more likely to get an unobstructed view of Mount Agung, which, when cloud-free, is genuinely one of the most magnificent sights in all of Indonesia.

I visited during the rainy season in January, and while it was still beautiful, the clouds did obscure Mount Agung on most days. If getting clear views of the volcano is important to you, visit between June and September.

Where to Stay

Karangasem is my recommendation for a base — it puts you centrally between the main attractions and gives you an authentic, local experience that's hard to find elsewhere in Bali. It's not a tourist hub, which means accommodation is simpler and cheaper, and the experience of just walking the streets feels genuinely different from anywhere else on the island.

For a more comfortable, amenity-rich base with easy beach access, Candidasa is the better-known option in the area. It has a small strip of restaurants, dive shops, and guesthouses along the coast, and is a 30-minute drive from Tirta Gangga and Taman Ujung. Budget accommodation in the area starts from around IDR 150,000–250,000 per night ($10–16 USD), with mid-range options running IDR 400,000–700,000.

Amed, a little further north on the coast, is also worth considering if you're a diver or snorkeller. It's one of the best dive spots in Bali, with a slower pace of life and a beautifully rugged black sand coastline.

Must-Visit Attractions in East Bali

Virgin Beach

A hidden paradise known for its pristine white sand and clear turquoise water, Virgin Beach is one of Bali's best-kept secrets and genuinely one of the most beautiful beaches I've visited anywhere. Getting here requires a 10-minute ride down a winding road from the main street, and the views on the way down alone are worth the journey.

I took a Gojek one sunny afternoon and was stunned by what I found. The beach is calm, uncrowded, and fringed by green hills; completely unlike the packed tourist beaches of Kuta or Seminyak. You can rent a sunbed, order a fresh drink from the small restaurant nearby, swim in the warm water, or simply sit and stare at the ocean for an hour.

I loved it so much I went back the very next day, this time with the other volunteers from my stay. We spent most of the afternoon there and it still didn't feel like enough. If you're in East Bali, this beach is non-negotiable.

Tirta Gangga

A former royal palace named after the sacred Ganges River in India, Tirta Gangga is one of the most serene and beautiful places I've visited in all of my travels. Built in 1948 by the last Raja of Karangasem, it features a series of ornamental ponds, decorative fountains, and unique stone statues set against a backdrop of rice terraces and mountain views.

The most beloved feature of Tirta Gangga is the stepping stones, a series of flat stones laid across the ponds that allow visitors to walk across the water. The koi fish swimming beneath you as you cross are enormous and beautiful; fish food is available to buy at the entrance if you want to feed them. There's also a swimming pond within the grounds that you can use for a small additional fee.

The most enchanting part of the complex is the Meditation Centre, where you'll find life-like sculptures depicting the transition from good to evil — eerie, thought-provoking, and utterly unique. On the other side of the grounds, a short flight of stairs leads to a large, ancient banyan tree that has the kind of quiet presence that makes you want to sit under it for a while.

Bukit Cinta

Surrounded by lush rice fields with Mount Agung looming in the background, Bukit Cinta is one of the best sunrise viewpoints in East Bali. You can walk through the rice terraces and soak in some of the most peaceful views the island has to offer. A small café at the top serves coffee and light snacks, perfect for a slow morning.

I visited during the rainy season, so the clouds obscured most of Mount Agung, which was a little disappointing. But even without the volcano in view, the rice fields were extraordinary — vivid green and completely still, with no other tourists in sight.

A small highlight from my visit: when I couldn't get a Gojek to take me back, a young woman working at the café kindly offered to drop me to my accommodation on her scooter. It was an unexpected moment of generosity that reminded me why I love travelling to places that are off the tourist trail.

Taman Ujung

If Tirta Gangga is intimate and meditative, Taman Ujung is grand and dramatic. Spread across 30 acres of landscaped grounds, this former royal palace features sweeping gardens, large reflecting ponds, and a fascinating mix of Balinese, Dutch, and Chinese architecture.

The main structure, Gili Bale, is reached via a long bridge across one of the ponds. But the real highlight is the climb to the top of the site. A long staircase leads up to an ancient ruin at the highest point, and from there the views over the entire palace grounds, the surrounding rice fields, and the coastline are absolutely breathtaking.

Compared to Tirta Gangga, Taman Ujung is larger, quieter, and sees far fewer visitors. If you're planning to visit East Bali, I'd strongly recommend visiting both — they're only about 15 minutes apart by scooter and are each uniquely beautiful in their own way.

Final Thoughts

East Bali surprised me in the best possible way. I went in with no particular expectations. It was a volunteering opportunity that led me there, not a carefully planned itinerary, and I came away with some of the most genuine, memorable experiences of any trip I've taken.

The curious stares from locals as I walked down the street, the kindness of strangers who offered lifts and recommendations, the home-cooked meals, the near-empty water palaces and hidden beaches — this is Bali as it must have felt before it became the world's most Instagrammed island.

If you love getting off the beaten track and experiencing a destination through its people and culture rather than its tourist infrastructure, East Bali belongs on your list.

Have questions about visiting East Bali? Leave a comment below — I'd love to help you plan your trip!